2014 Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Champs Gain

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Pale yellow. Tangerine, orange and spicy oak on the nose, plus a suggestion of nut oil. Tactile, chewy and broad, showing brisk but slightly oily flavors of grapefruit, pear, lime leaf, honey and spices. Finishes with a citrussy firmness and good sneaky length. These vines, planted in 1989 and 1987, produced 58 hectoliters per hectare in 2014, according to Michel Coutoux.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Niellon's 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain showed far better than when I tasted it just after bottling. Here, it has a fresh and vibrant bouquet with gunflint-infused Golden Delicious aromas, intense and vivacious. The palate is very composed with beautifully integrated oak and plenty of complex fruit: Japanese yuzu, nectarine, stem ginger and touch of rhubarb. This has certainly improved in bottle, and it may well continue its ascent.