2015 Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Full, dark red. Initially mute nose opened to reveal splendidly deep scents of red cherry, spices, smoke, underbrush and salty minerality, with a suggestion of almost liqueur-like ripeness. Massive and hugely rich; in fact, almost too big for the mouth, conveying a strong impression of baby fat. For all its ripeness and power, though, this wine possesses outstanding energy for the vintage. The extraordinarily long, mounting finish leaves the palate and teeth saturated with noble tannins. This great, fully ripe Clos Vougeot is likely to enjoy a very long life in the cellar.

Cask sample. Toasty and black-fruited nose. Long spicy finish and plenty of fruit concentration on the mid palate. Combines fruit intensity with great structural balance – and avoids heaviness – but perhaps doesn't have all the bells and whistles expected from a grand cru. (RH)