2014 Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Healthy medium red; not as dark as the '15. Spicy red fruits, menthol and musky soil tones on the expressive nose, along with the salty aspect of this vintage. Fine-grained, floral and mineral-driven, conveying terrific cut to its strawberry, raspberry and blood orange fruit flavors. But owing to its strong saline minerality, this dense but juicy wine is about much more than primary fruit and is already long on personality. More savory and refined than the very young 2015 if not nearly as massive as that wine. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and a lingering spice element. (12.9% alcohol; 3.7 pH, 42 hl/h; harvested on September 21)

Mid ruby. Now this smells like wonderfully relaxed real wine! Already complex and artisanal rather than of winemaking. Really captivating. Bright ripe red fruits (cherries? plums?) in great balance with the acid (low) and tannins (light). Not that intense but in perfect balance. (JR)