2017 Domaine Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, En Virondot

Two-hectare parcel and, apart from one tiny part, owned by the domaine. A quasi-monopole of sorts. Very floral and mineral nose with some fresh-herb notes, as well as plenty of yellow citrus fruit. The palate has a very elegant, focused and compressed feel. Quite taut for now, so give this time. Try from 2022.

From the village's highest altitude premier cru comes the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot, a beautiful wine that wafts from the glass with scents of vine blossom, citrus oil, fresh pastry and blanched almonds. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and fine-boned, it's elegant and precise, with a pretty core of fruit, racy acids and a delicately perfumed finish. Morey owns almost 90% of this lieu-dit, and the other owner doesn't declare it, so this is a de facto monopole.

Spiced ripe lemon fruit plus a combination of stony minerality and creamy lees effect. Difficult to describe the elements. That creamy richness on the palate too, but not very intense. Gentle and harmonious. (JH) (JR)