2016 Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Champeaux

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux was not affected by frost and yielded a good quantity to the surprise of Arnaud Mortet —30 hectoliters per hectare. Matured with 50% whole bunch and up to 70% new oak, it has a generous, almost peppermint-tinged bouquet with great vigor and vivacity. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannin, good weight and plenty of blood orange-tinged black fruit. It is slightly attenuated right on the finish but this should flesh out once in bottle. This is how to make a great Les Champeaux.

(no frost here in 2016, allowing for production of 38 hectoliters per hectare, which Mortet called "a very good crop from these old vines"; 60% vendange entier and 60% new oak): Distinctly solaire nose offers chocolatey black cherry and dark raspberry aromas lifted by salty minerality. Thick, silky and moderately sweet, boasting terrific depth of fruit and promising medicinal reserve. Finishes very long and a bit youthfully aggressive but not hot, with an element of opulence that reminded me of a 2015. Arnaud Mortet noted that 2016 was a very good year for the Côteau de Brochon.