2012 Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Champeaux

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux from the talented Arnaud Mortet has a slightly muted nose at first, perhaps caught at an awkward stage of adolescence because there is fine delineation here, quite floral in nature, feminine and refined. The vigor will develop with time. The palate is very well balanced, smooth and sensual, yes a little oaky at the moment but it is beautifully combined with the fruit and the tannins are extremely fine on the finish. This is a brilliant wine from a producer in the ascendant. Pure class.

(aging in 50% new oak; the yield here was just 25 hectoliters per hectare): Good bright, dark red. Slightly reduced but pure aromas of strawberry, raspberry and crushed stone. At once silky and energetic, offering terrific stony penetration to the vibrant red berry flavors. Delivers lovely density without any impression of weight. Real tiny-berry intensity here. Finishes tactile, energetic and very long. Wonderfully precise and pure.

Mortet's 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux boasts incredible depth and energy along with a deceptively mid-weight personality. Dark red/bluish fruit, smoke and floral notes abound in the glass. The Champeaux has a pretty similar profile to the Vieilles Vignes, but with more depth and sustain. Here the flavors are bold and incisive to match the wine's focused tannic presence. This is another 2012 that is going to require time.