2017 Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is the usual combination of Petit Chapelle, Cherbaudes and Bel Air, matures in 60% new oak with 30-40% whole bunches. This is a big step up from the Village Cru: much more delineation and precision, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, the whole bunch deftly used. The palate is very harmonious and poised, the acidity supremely well judged with a silky smooth yet structured, grainy-textured finish that is pure class. Do not overlook this gem from Arnaud Mortet.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is also very expressive, bursting with aromas of orange rind, peony and wild berries. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, pure and satiny, with a layered mid-palate, good depth and concentration and an elegant, fragrant profile. Mortet opted to manually cut out the central stems for one-quarter of this cuvée, retaining the pedicels.