2011 Domaine Denis Mortet, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Crushed rose petals, mint, small red cherries and wild flowers are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2011 Clos de Vougeot. A wine of delicacy and finesse, the 2011 impresses for its nuance and transparency, all attributes that aren't always easy to find in Clos Vougeot. The lifted, aromatically expressive finish is particularly of note.

The 2011 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru was matured 100% in new oak. The oak seems more dominant than the Lavaux St. Jacques at this stage, the terroir unable to impress itself upon the aromatics to the same degree. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly leafy entry. It is nicely balanced with a touch of spice toward the finish, although personally I prefer the aforementioned Gevrey premier cru. Drink 2016-2030. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400 and Fields Morris & Verdin, Justerini & Brooks, Berry Brothers & Rudd all in the UK.

(this was racked iinto two-year-old barrels after its malolactic fermentation): Bright medium red. Subtle, pure aromas of black cherry fresh herbs, flowers and earth. Big, sweet and broad on entry but not yet filled in. Flavors of cherry and herbs turn a bit dry on the back half. This youthfully closed, rather cool wine isn't revealing much personality today but finishes with very good length. Hard to assess now.

Looks quite evolved. Mildly jammy on the nose. Sweet start without massive concentration. Just a little bit too sweet for comfort? Lots of charm but not much grunt. No great persistence. (JR)