2019 Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanc

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Village felt tight and a little unresponsive when I tasted it at the domaine, especially after the two more expressive Saint-Aubins. The palate is well balanced and demonstrates good concentration with just a touch of viscosity. Ginger and orange rind notes furnish the finish that exhibits fine composure with moderate length. Enjoy over 8-10 years.

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Village wafts from the glass with notes of orange oil, white flowers, Anjou pear, mint and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's bright and lively, with fine concentration, tangy acids and a nicely defined finish.

This single wine represents more than 40% of the domaine’s production. From different terroirs both sides of the appellation: one-third from the south and two-thirds from the Puligny side. The different plots are picked separately and then blended after one year at the end of the time in wood. There is just one bottling. He could make lieux dts but thinks ‘it’s interesting to give people a global view of the appellation’. 100–130 barrels usually but in 2019 the total was 92. Tank sample. Pale lemon gold. Quite nuanced nose. Very clean and precise. Quite forward. Very approachable. Long. I can’t see anyone being disappointed in this wine. It should drink well 2023–27 according to Alex Moreau but I’d have thought a little sooner. (JR)