2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanc

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Village is also showing brilliantly, opening in the glass with notes of citrus oil, fresh pear, white flowers and hazelnut. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, mineral finish. This is Moreau's largest cuvée by some margin, and it's a terrific introduction to the domaine style. What's more, I am still drinking the 2008 and 2010 vintages from my own cellar, so I can attest to how gracefully it ages.

Tank sample, to be bottled next week. Fined but not filtered, like the St-Aubins. This wine represents 40% of the domaine’s production and comes from several parcels but 30% is from the south of Chassagne, below Champs Gains and Morgeot and the rest from the north on the border with Puligny, eg Les Charrieres. Blended as must because harvest times may be different. One bottling for consistency. He could produce a single-vineyard Les Masures but prefers to benefit from the reputation of the village appellation. A deep and intense creamy citrus ripeness on the nose with just a touch of oaky spice in the background adding a savoury complexity. Succulent and rich, balancing ripe fruit and lively acidity. Expressive and giving and no reason it should not age but why wait? People are losing the taste for older wine, thinks Alex Moreau. Peachy long fresh finish. Pure pleasure. (JH)