2015 Bernard Moreau, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Alluring nose combines lemon, lime, crushed rock and a sexy leesy element. Dense and thick but with terrific mineral spine and energy to its flavors of citrus fruits and white flowers. Great unmistakable Burgundy funk here. Moreau told me that this wine is fairly low in acidity but its saline minerality nonetheless gives it a penetrating quality. Mounts slowly and stains the palate on the very long aftertaste. Superb wild, musky wine with unexpected precision. Deceptively tasteable early on, as Chevalier-Montrachet can be, but lay this one down.

The 2015 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru comes from the equivalent of three regular barrels actually aged in two larger 350-liter barrels. The bouquet is very intense, showing a slight reduction that does not impede upon the mineral expression, those scents of cold wet limestone and slate. The palate is crisp and fresh on the entry, very cohesive and with great depth, the oak in good proportion to the fruit, leading to a caressing, walnut-tinged finish. While not as transcendental as the 2014 could become, this remains a very finely tuned Chevalier-Montrachet.