2023 Domaine Denis Mortet, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from old vines that suffer millerandage on the mid-slope, done with 80% whole bunches with the central stems removed. It has a clean and precise bouquet with blackberry, graphite, violet and crushed stone scents that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned, supple tannins. It is fleshy and sapid toward the finish but boasts an insistent grip, lingering with a touch of black pepper on the aftertaste. This is a serious Bonnes-Mares for long-term consideration.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Mortet's 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, incense, violets and anise. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's supple, pure and perfumed, with a deep core of cool, succulent fruit, ultra-refined tannins and a long, saline finish.

From vines planted at the centre of the cru, neither more Morey nor more Chambolle. 70–80 years old. Cask sample. Mid ruby. Immediate weight and mass on the palate. Serious, slightly grave even. Long, salty finish. Long term. (MH)