2023 Arnaud Mortet, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from the north part of the vineyard. It was vinified with 80% whole bunches, with the central stem removed from each cluster. This has a floral bouquet of violet and iris flower, very pure and sensual. The palate is medium-bodied with a cashmere texture that disguises the backbone underneath. Lightly spiced with hints of clove and white pepper, it gently fans out on the persistent finish. Excellent.

At the northern end of Charmes-Chambertin, next to Griotte-Chambertin. 80% whole bunch, pedicels only. Cask sample. Mid ruby. Ripe red-berry fruits (red cherry, redcurrant and raspberry) with a lovely woodland, undergrowth flourish. Less exuberant than the Mazoyères, but showing great savoury character, a long salty finish and modest, chalky tannins. (MH)