2017 Domaine de Montille, Volnay Premier Cru, Taille Pieds

Lovely, fragrant nose with notes of very dark cherries and forest berries, then stunningly fine tannins and great concentration, making this a very serious wine for the appellation. Very long and polished finish. Made from truly ancient vines. Drink from 2021.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds is also showing very well, bursting with expressive aromas of peonies, orange rind and wild berries, as well as hints of raw cocoa and sweet soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with an ample core of succulent fruit underpinned by melting tannins and lively acids. While it's already deceptively charming, this also has the necessary depth for sustained and positive development in the cellar. From 80-year-old vines, this is one of de Montille's emblematic wines—and with good reason.

The 2017 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, a touch of burnt match, although there is decent fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with rather drying tannins and dark berry fruit mixed with menthol toward the finish, which needs a little more persistence.

From barrel but has been racked. Gravel on limestone. 70-year-old vines, super-healthy in a great location. 100% whole bunch. 30% new oak. Rich with dark-red fruit on the nose. Dark and a hint of spice. More chewy than the Champans. Still with the finesse of whole-bunch freshness. Taut and chalky on the finish. Very fresh and mouth-watering. Dry finish. (JH)