2016 Domaine de Montille, Volnay Premier Cru, Taille Pieds

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds is 100% whole cluster and 30% new oak. This vineyard was not affected by the frost. It has a very intense blackberry and Morello cherry-scented bouquet with hints of iodine and incense developing with time. I adore the controlled opulence here. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin but less rigid than the Mitans, with a touch of salinity, a light marine influence toward the finish. This has very good potential, but it will reward those with patience to cellar 4 or 5 years.

(vinified entirely with whole clusters and aged in 35% new oak; the average vine age here is 65 years and the soil features gravel on limestone): Bright medium-deep red. Deeply pitched, fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry and dark cherry, plus a hint of smoky minerality. Wonderfully plush yet lively, displaying more volume and depth than the Mitans. Lovely silky Volnay without any impression of undue weight. Really fills the mouth and echoes on the finish while maintaining superb vivacity. Here the acidity is ripe and the broad tannins distinctly suave and fine-grained. This is showing beautifully considering that it only finished its malolactic fermentation in September.

This too is intensely floral on the restrained, ultra-fresh and pure nose that blends both red and dark berries together with slightly exotic nuances of spice and tea. The mouth feel of the medium-bodied and overtly mineral-driven flavors is at once refined but powerful with excellent underlying tension suffusing the moderately austere, firm and built-to-age finish. This should be first-rate in time but patience is required.

Gravel on limestone. Unusually in 2016, 100% whole bunch. 70-year-old vines, super-healthy in a great location. Barrel sample. Bright, dark crimson. Firm with a line and freshness on the nose laced with a little treacle/molasses. Really rich fruit. Lots of definition and firmness. Really admirable. Pretty throbbing on the end! (JR)