2013 Domaine de Montille, Volnay Premier Cru, Taille Pieds

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru les Taillepieds, which is one-third whole cluster and raised in 30% new oak, has the most elegant bouquet of de Montille’s Volnays with mineral rich red and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a keen thread of acidity and superb salinity toward the marine-influenced finish. Probably the pick of the Volnay wines from the domaine in 2013, and possibly the most complete, even if it cuts off a little abruptly.

Here the nose is slightly more complex than the Mitans if not quite as elegant with its cool and restrained nose that is also quite floral and spicy. There is excellent volume and concentration to the markedly rich and relatively full-bodied flavors that are perhaps the most mineral-driven of all the wines in the range. The supporting tannins are firm but not hard though there is just a hint of dryness on the otherwise balanced finish.

(two-thirds vendange entier ): Healthy deep red. Pretty perfume of red berries, rose petal, menthol and licorice. Then tighter and drier in the mouth than the Mitans, due in part to a higher level of unabsorbed CO2. Blacker in its fruit character and less creamy today. This is way behind the Mitans in its development and quite difficult to taste today. The youthfully clenched finish shows a medicinal minty element.

One-third whole bunch (they had to de-stem lots because of hail damage), 30% new oak. Gravel on limestone. Very deep crimson. Racy and lively and with a full spread of fruit across the palate. Really rather gorgeous. (JR)