2009 Domaine de Montille, Volnay Premier Cru, Taille Pieds

The 2009 Volnay Taillepieds is all about minerality and sheer energy. It shows fabulous textural richness in its dark red fruit, not to mention a highly engaging personality. This is a very complete and promising wine, but it needs time. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Etienne de Montille began harvesting on September 5 in 2009 in order to maintain as much freshness as possible. Natural alcohols came in between 12.7% and 13.2% slightly higher than the range de Montille prefers. My sense is that some of the entry-level 2009s could have used a touch more density, but the higher end wines are quite successful across the board. The 2009s were aged on their lees and were not racked until they were prepared for bottling, which began in September 2010, the first time de Montille had bottled 1er Crus before the following harvest. I tasted most of the 2009s from tank, where they were settling before bottling. De Montille did not plan to fine or filter any of the wines in tank. Readers will find additional notes on the estate’s 2008s on www.erobertparker.com. Various American Importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

(100% vendange entier; 25% new oak; not yet racked) Medium red, a bit paler than the Mitans. Slightly high-toned aromas of crushed blueberry and rose petal, with a suggestion of citrus fruit. Then supple, sweet and aromatic on the palate, with cooler aromas of red cherry, raspberry and spicy oak. Finishes classically dry, with substantial broad tannins.