2014 Domaine de Montille, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was fully destemmed this year. I like the definition here, vibrant with red cherry and redcurrant that is beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied and tightly wound. It feels quite masculine with a chalky texture finish; there is good backbone and extraction. Give this 3-4 years so that it becomes less Pommard and more Volnay.

(all destemmed; 25% hail loss): Healthy bright red. Pure red fruit, licorice and spice aromas are lifted by a floral topnote. Spicy, juicy and brisk, offering youthfully imploded but very pure flavors of black cherry and bitter chocolate. Not fleshy or particularly deep but lively and penetrating. Two-thirds of this wine is from young vines, which chef de cave Brian Sieve said recovered relatively quickly from the late-June hailstorm.