2013 Domaine de Montille, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Bright, deep red. Medicinal cherry, wild herbs, licorice and a whiff of menthol on the nose: very Clos Vougeot. Juicy and intense but quite tight in the early going, hiding its personality today. Showed a creamier middle and rather suave tannins with aeration but this rather elegantly styled Clos Vougeot will nonetheless require patience.

Tasted from magnum, the 2013 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru from Domaine de Montille has a rather "forced" nose that does not possess the natural, refined personality of some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with good density, but it feels more of a winemaking Clos Vougeot than a Burgundy from one of its most historic vineyards. Chewy on the lightly spiced finish, perhaps it will improve in bottle and lose that burliness.

Tasted blind. Magnum. Deep ruby. Pretty closed nose – perhaps because it’s a magnum? But a great spread of red-fruit flavours on the palate before some quite dry tannins on the finish. This wine is ambitious. Far from monumental but – correct. Decent expression of both vintage and cru. Very fresh and clean. (JR)