2005 Domaine de Montille, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

The 2005 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine de Montille has a fragrant nose with cranberry, incense and wild heather—much better defined than the Les Malconsorts. The palate is poised with a candied entry and a keen line of countervailing acidity, becoming plush and fluid with lovely weight and grip on the finish. There is something very assured about this. Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.

From new, centrally-located holdings, the de Montille 2005 Clos Vougeot offers a smoky, pungent, sweetly-fruited aroma, a rich, dense palate featuring lightly-cooked black cherry and raspberry, and an overtly ripe, meaty finish that evinces a touch of heat. This has the structure, formidable concentration and rich ripeness to suggest 6-8 years cellaring, but will it develop some nuance along the way? Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Medium red. Perfumed aromas of spicy red fruits, pepper and flowers. More impressive for its juiciness and energy than its size or power, offering pungent flavors of red fruits and herbs and a saline component. Finishes long and aromatic, with substantial ripe tannins.