2013 Perrot-Minot, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes

The 2013 Chapelle-Chambertin is one of the darker, spicier Grand Crus in the lineup. Here it is the wine's depth and mid-palate intensity that stand out most, especially in a year in which the wines are generally brighter in style. The powerful, explosive finish holds plenty of allure, though, especially for those with the patience to cellar the 2013 until at least age ten or so.

(from 90-year-old, millerandé vines; the cold flowering cut the crop in half, to a mere nine hectoliters per hectare, according to Perrot-Minot): Full, bright red. Sappy raspberry, cherry and crushed rock on the nose. Dense and sweet on entry, then juicy and tight in the middle. Began with a touch of medicinal bitterness but grew silkier with air. Finishes with a serious spine of fine-grained tannins and very good savory persistence. Slightly reduced today, but boasts terrific potential.