2020 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Taillepieds

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds opens in the glass with aromas of raspberries, blackberries, raw coca, loamy soil and spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's layered and vibrant, with terrific intensity without weight. This is an unusually fine-boned Taillepieds that is likely to emerge as the most elegant of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio.

The 2020 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has an overtly floral bouquet: wilted rose petals, iris and violet, wonderful definition with plenty of crunchy red and black fruit comingling. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite firm tannins, crisp acidity, structured and quite "serious" with black pepper and a touch of clove on the pesistent finish. This will require some bottle age.

From a steep, windy slope that's as high as Clos des Ducs. Relatively deep crimson. Intense with a top note of liquorice. Spicy and rich in this vintage. Broad fruit and no shortage of tannins. But those tannins have been exceedingly well managed. Absolutely not sweet – quite a savoury finish in fact that is lightly grainy in texture at this early point in its life. (JR)