2014 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Angles

(from vines planted in the 1960s; the crop level here was just 18 hectoliters per hectare): Good medium red. Very ripe aroma of chocolate-covered raspberry. Tactile and sweet, projecting strong cherry/berry fruit but a bit short on finesse. Finishes with substantial chewy, chocolatey-ripe tannins. Makes a satisfying mouthful already but this premier cru has the concentration and extract to age.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles, which was blended into the Volnay Premier Cru until 2009, was a little disjointed on the nose when I tasted it, needing more time in barrel to really coalesce. The palate is more cohesive with grainy tannin, slightly darker fruit than the Premier Cru, hints of dark chocolate just poking through the red berry fruit towards the easy going, rounded finish. Enjoy this over the next decade.

Lightish cherry red. Notably more aromatic fruit intensity here compared with the Volnay premier cru. Hints of spice and a more savoury character on the palate that undergirds the very pretty floral/fruit on the nose. Restrained on the palate – refined rather than light – and reasonably sustained. Finest of tannins but they are definite and give shape to the wine. Freshness is just right for the whole. (JH)

Just at the foot of Volnay’s slope but ‘not very slopey’. To be bottled in March. Very intense and charming. Relaxed and quite rich. Lots of sweet tannins on the finish. Chewy end but good life and vibrancy. (JR)