2005 Domaine Maume, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

A lean, bright finish packs refreshment and smoky, meaty, mineral interest. Maume’s three barrels of 2005 Charmes-Chambertin (actually from the Mazoyeres) represented the first wine on this occasion to truly have its act together. Aromas of smoked meat, licorice and candied cherry familiar from other wines in this collection are joined by brown spices and herbal concentrates. Bright and juicy, with an almost liqueur-like intensity of cherry on the palate, this displays an almost obstreperously bright, but impressively penetrating finish, focused on high-toned fruit and herbal distillates, but exhibiting low-toned meatiness as well. Also recommended: 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (unknown; 85-87+?). Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524 1524