2023 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans

The 2023 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a delineated, intricate bouquet that opens beautifully in the glass. It is surprisingly mineral-driven given the warmth of the season, with the terroir really coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgier tannins compared to the Taillepieds. This finely crafted, quite sapid Champans is fresh with a little more salinity, particularly toward the finish.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Even in this more charming vintage, the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is the most structured wine in the range, opening up to reveal notes of cherries, berries and peonies, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and broad-shouldered palate built around sweet, powdery tannins. It will reward a bit of patience.

Bright mid crimson. Not desperately communicative on the nose. But a very sweet start, almost red-cherry fruit! For those who seek a bit more concentration and longevity? Obviously needs time to evolve aromatically. Really quite complex. Grand cru build? But so neat and complete. Very complex, long finish. (JR)