2009 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Fremiets

This outstanding Fremiet contains oodles of dark cherry and boysenberry fruit on the nose with very fine definition. Tightly coiled but very focused. The palate has a pretty, quite tannic entry, very nicely poised with wonderful mineralite towards the crisp, focused vintage. Bon vin! Tasted January 2011.

The 2009 Volnay Fremiet caresses the palate with dark wild cherries, spices and flowers. There is plenty of energy in the glass as this rich, harmonious Volnay shows off its pedigree. Clean, saline notes inform the harmonious finish. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. The harvest at d’Angerville started on September 9. Guillaume d’Angerville told me that in recent years he has doubled the number of pickers with the goal of harvesting all of the fruit in just a few days. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Cuvaison started with 3-4 days of cold maceration at a modestly cool temperature followed by two weeks on the skins with no punchdowns and a generally soft approach to extraction. After pressing, the wines were moved into barrel. The estate did one racking after the malos. New oak was on average 20-25%. In 2009 the estate completed a conversion to biodynamic farming started in 2006. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Good bright red. High-toned, very ripe aromas of kirsch, licorice, dark chocolate and spices. Dense, sweet and thick but with good mineral lift giving verve to the middle palate. There's a lot of wine here. Big and rich but light on its feet, with salty minerality providing a solid structural underpinning. Really spreads out on the firm, broad finish.

Bright ruby. Rather subtle fruit on the nose and then marked acidity on the palate and lots of astringency. Green finish. Classic burgundy?! [Tasted blind in a line-up of New World 2009 Pinots.] With some bitter oak tannins. Bone-dry finish. Translucent. Very confident. Very much a long-distance player. (JR)