2006 Domaine du Comte Liger Belair, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Suchots

Served by Louis-Michel Liger-Belair from double magnum, the 2006 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru sports a gorgeous, black cherry, sous-bois and white pepper bouquet that still feels youthful (perhaps because of the large format and provenance.) The palate is structured with fine grip, overflowing with vim and vigour. The tannins mellow towards the finish but there remains tremendous weight and sumptuousness here. Excellent. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune.

Good full, dark red. Sexy nose combines raspberry, cocoa powder, fresh herbs, mint and meat, all lifted by blood orange and flowers. Then tight and high-pitched in the mouth, with terrific energy to the flavors of raspberry, minerals, flowers and citrus peel. Finishes with substantial dusty, firm tannins that are more obvious than those of the young 2007. At this point in our tasting, Liger-Belair noted that he finds Suchots "a bit boring," and that he prefers the elegance and vibrancy of crus like Petits-Monts and Reignots.