2015 Domaine du Comte Liger Belair, Vosne-Romanee

(20% of this fruit comes from the top of the slope, which Liger-Belair says brings limestone freshness): Bright ruby-red. Blackberry, roast coffee and smoke on the nose. Dense and round, offering a velvety texture and good stuffing for village wine. Very ripe but nicely leavened by smoky minerality. In a softer style, finishing with ripe tannins. This is almost ready to be racked; indeed, Liger-Belair planned to bottle it before Christmas.

: A mild touch of reduction is just enough to push the underlying aromas of spice and plum to the background so be sure to decant this if you're going to try a bottle young. Otherwise there is both good freshness and a lovely inner mouth perfume to the firm and punchy medium weight flavors that possess good if not special depth on the serious and borderline rustic finish. I found this to be a bit awkward today and would suggest allowing it at least a few years of bottle age first to better harmonize.

Cask sample. Blend of 11 vineyards. ‘First vintage was 2006 and it’s taken us 10 years to get where we want to be.’ Deep crimson. Very intense nose. Easy, round, energetic palate. Even a little gassy. Good liveliness on the finish. (JR)