2016 Hubert Lignier, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Les Didiers

(50% of the fruit was lost to frost, with the vines picked very late; this wine began in new oak but Lignier racked it into his own two-year-old barrels last May): Dark ruby-red. Very rich, dark nose combines black fruits and dark chocolate. Fat, oaky, chewy and sweet; a big wine but heavier than those vinified by Lignier, even a bit brutal. This is 14% alcohol and it shows it. Finishes with big, tongue-dusting tannins and a slightly ponderous quality.

Prices tripled since 2005 at the Hospices de Nuits. Bought as wine. His clients ask him to buy at Hospices de Beaune but he was born in Nuits and reckons he may eventually need the Hospices de Nuits. 36- to 65-year-old vines. More than 14%. Very dark crimson. Pretty oaky still even though he moves wine to older oak once he gets it. A little aggressive in terms of structure. (JR)