2016 Thibault Liger-Belair, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

(most of the two-thirds of this holding that was planted in 1994 was vinified with whole clusters but the younger vines, which Liger-Belair said accounted for 60% of his Clos Vougeot production in 2016, were destemmed): Bright medium ruby. Tight nose hints at kirsch , cassis and licorice. Juicy and intensely flavored, with its dark fruits complemented by lovely spicy lift and subtle saline soil tones. A strikingly delineated Clos Vougeot; a bit less broad-shouldered and rustic than in past years but firmly tannic and built for a slow and graceful evolution in bottle.

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes 70% from the older vines planted in the 1940s and includes 40% whole cluster. It has a touch of reduction on the nose, but the palate is well structured, strict and linear, fresh in the mouth, although I would be seeking for more weight and fruité toward the finish. Let’s see...