2017 Domaine du Comte Liger Belair, La Romanee Grand Cru

The 2017 La Romanée Grand Cru, which contains around 15% whole bunches this year, has one of the most understated bouquets that I have encountered from this monopole in recent years (in a similar manner to La Tâche). This is very succinct, very understated, and opts to gradually unfurl its crushed-stone-infused red fruit. The palate is very precise on the entry, displaying perfectly judged acidity and an effortless quality that reminds me of the superlative 2006 recently tasted. It is very long in the mouth and extremely pure but does not showboat. Wonderful.

15–25% whole bunch. Monopole. This has all the complexity and anticipation that you might expect from a grand cru: a touch of spice, dusty, chalky and with rare tannic finesse. Mineral but fruity and such incredible purity. There’s a hint of the oak but it is very much in the background. Fine-boned, bone dry and with incredible length. (JH)