2019 Benjamin Leroux, Meursault Premier Cru, La Piece sous le Bois

The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois is another highpoint of the range, delivering aromas of citrus zest, white flowers, almonds and pear. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a fleshy core of fruit girdled by tangy acids, it concludes with a chalky finish.

The 2019 Meursault-Blagny La Piéce Sous La Bois 1er Cru is rambunctious on the nose, more spirituous than its peers, with some alcohol blurring its edges. Light touches of fennel and mint join the fray after a couple of minutes. The palate is powerful on the entry with walnut-tinged citrus fruit, orange rind and hints of mandarin. It shows a gentle grip and plenty of substance, but maybe it is just missing a little persistence on the finish? Otherwise, this is perfect to drink now and over the next decade. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

His Blagny vineyard. Some vines were planted in 1930. Average is 45–50 years now that they have taken over another parcel. They own 2.2 ha in total. Aged in 300- and 600-litre casks. He makes a single LX cuvee in magnum only from old vines. Unracked. Tense and lively with quite a bit of spice. Masses of appeal, and more acidity. (JR)