2017 Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Pucelles

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru does not quite convey the same degree of energy as its peers. Flint and green apple notes gradually unfurl; maybe this is just more backward? The palate is definitely backward and yet there is a lot of weight in the mouth. It initially feels a little clammed shut on the finish, but there is a long, spicy aftertaste and impressive precision. This is a surly Pucelles that will require cellaring but there is clearly quality here. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

(this wine was aging in the grand cru room of the cellar): Aromas of nectarine and minerals convey an almost oily impression as well as a note of reduction. Then almost shockingly penetrating in the mouth for such a dense wine, with its nectarine, yellow plum and anise flavors enlivened by scintillating lemony acidity. Finishes extremely long and perfumed. This wonderfully juicy, tactile wine offers a rare combination of thickness and inner-mouth tension.

Fine clay. Racked to tank just before the 2018 harvest. Ripe pear and pure citrus and just a hint of oak spice but mostly there’s a stony tension. Then the fruit explodes on the palate, great power and muscle but all toned and shaped by the acidity. Long, textured finish. (JH)