2016 Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Folatieres

Leflaive's 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with a lovely bouquet of green orchard fruits, fresh peach, lemon oil, wheat toast and a classy framing of nutty new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and pure, with a refined, satiny, expansive profile that contrasts with the blockier Combettes, displaying fine concentration at the core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. While yields were very low in this vineyard, this Folatières remains quite classic in profile.

The 2016 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres has a slightly richer and more showy bouquet than Les Combettes, hints of dried honey, a touch of walnut oil, the warmth of the late summer conveyed here. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity that cuts through the honeyed fruit, the richness conspicuous on the very smooth, slightly viscous, almost toasty finish that is appealing. One to watch.

Almost as high as Chevalier-Montrachet. Deep, dense now with real depth. Firm and somehow burnished with real polish and fruit. Great concentration and persistence. Quite forward really. Lots to chew on the end but already approachable. (JR)