2022 Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Combettes

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru, which always suffers millerandage , has a taut, stony, Zen-like bouquet that, at the moment, is less flattering than the Les Folatières. This is going to bide its time. The palate is pretty complex, with a dab of lemon rind, a welcome bitterness and salinity, plus a very intense finish. The 2022 is one for Puligny diehards. I admire its aloofness and uncompromising nature.

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes has been one of the highlights of the range in recent years, and it's often one of the domaine's earliest-ripening parcels. This year's rendition is attractive, exhibiting aromas of pear, orange zest, white flowers and hazelnuts, but the medium-bodied, delicately satiny palate can't quite match the texture and plenitude of recent renditions, lending the wine a somewhat understated, early-picked profile.