2013 Domaine Leflaive, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, like many from this vineyard, has an expressive and, compared to other vintages, you could almost say extravagant bouquet, bridled with intense citrus lemon, freshly sliced pear, limestone and even a faint touch of peppermint. The palate is intense on the entry with more depth than the Bienvenue at this stage. There is a pinch of spice here, shaved ginger adding a bit of fire at the front of the tongue, then attractive stony notes finally revealed on the finish and the aftertaste. Superb - for me perhaps superior to the 2012.

Here the nose is restrained to the point of being all but mute and only aggressive swirling coaxes the grudging aromas of pear, white peach, apricot, acacia blossom and discreet menthol nuances. As is usually the case there is more size, weight and muscle to the medium weight plus flavors that possess a hint of bitter lemon on the massively long finish. What I find interesting about the 2013 Bâtard is not only that it is more elegant then usual but also that it manages to deliver so much volume and power without any appreciable weight. In a word, brilliant.

(the alcohol here is a tad over 13%, including about 0.25% of chaptalization, according to Eric Remy): Healthy bright yellow. Expressive perfume of yellow fruits, flowers and clove oil. Very ripe and suave, showing plenty of weight but a distinctly feminine element of finesse to the flavors of apple, pear, menthol and minerals accented by spices. Quite round in the middle palate but the very long finish displays good grip and even a somewhat muscular quality.

Rich putty nose. Very flattering even if without the glorious weight of some vintages. Some breadth but very youthful. Tight and fine. (JR)