2015 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Derriere Chez Edouard Saint Aubin Cuvee Haute Densite

Exhibiting aromas of nectarine, pear, Meyer lemon and citrus confit mingled with clear honey, freshly baked bread and iodine, the 2015 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is full-bodied, broad and layered, with a textural attack that segued into a deep, racy mid-palate, concluding with a long, resonant finish. Rich and saline, it's fresher and more incisive than the regular bottling of Derrière Chez Edouard, yet analytically, it's lower in acidity.

(14.17% alcohol, from a crop level of just 100 grams--three clusters--per vine, according to Lamy): Distinctly more exotic on the nose than the Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité, conveying an impression of candied citrus peel. Then large-scaled, fine-grained and sweet on the palate, with shockingly sound acidity leavening the wine's exotic side. This very concentrated, rich, very long wine finishes with a touch of bitterness that will require at least a few years of bottle aging to be absorbed. I haven't tasted many Saint-Aubin wines with this combination of density of material and inner-mouth energy.

The 2015 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Density, Olivier Lamy's experimentation with very high density plantings, has a crisp and tensile bouquet, struck flint with smoke aromas, a touch of hazelnut in the background. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with a fine line of acidity, very well balanced with a palpable sense of energy, conveying harmony and poise on the finish. Everything is here for a very fine Saint-Aubin, although it may close down for a couple of years after bottling.