2020 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Les Murgers des Dents de Chien

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien is one of the highlights of the range this year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, crisp green apple, lime, orange oil, nutmeg and bread dough, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with a seamless, complete profile and a long, saline finish. The vines in this parcel, like those in the Clos de la Chatenière, suffer from leaf roll virus, which results in elevated levels of concentration.

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru has a more vigorous bouquet. However, it doesn't quite have the personality of the best wines from the appellation. It initially comes across as a bit generic, though after 15 minutes, some lovely wet limestone/petrichor scents emerge. The palate is well-balanced with an edgy opening, good depth and just the right amount of phenolics. With citrus peel/orange rind towards the finish, this represents a Saint-Aubin that I am intrigued to see mature in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.