2017 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Les Murgers des Dents de Chien

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien was one of the highlights of Lamy's range from barrel, and it lives up to that showing from bottle. Wafting from the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, clear honey, pear and oyster shell, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with an electric spine of acidity and a tangy, saline finish.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru has a light, slightly more herbaceous bouquet compared to others in this flight, very crisp and slightly earthy; enticing shucked oyster shell aromas develop with time. The palate is well balanced with a sour lemon and lime zest note on the entry and moderate weight. Peppery and malic toward the finish, which is quite long, although this is not the most complex Saint-Aubin this year. Intriguingly, I see that this correlates more to my assessment in barrel than in bottle. Let's see how it evolves. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.