2020 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Les Frionnes Blanc

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is one of the more reserved wines in the range, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange zest, confit citrus, crisp yellow apple and white flowers. It's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. Forget it for the better part of a decade in the cellar and reap the rewards, even if it will be approachable sooner.

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams down on the finish and orders you to come back in 3-4 years to see if it's ready for business.

Marine, savoury nose with apricot fruit beneath. Lovely salinity on the palate, resembling something like top Muscadet in some ways. On the palate, there's subtle matchstick character, tart apple fruit and a classic, moderately lengthy mineral flavour on the finish. (RH)