2022 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de la Chateniere Blanc

The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is showing brilliantly, offering up aromas of pear, orange oil, toasted hazelnuts and warm stones. Medium to full-bodied, dense and satiny, with a layered core of fruit, chalky structuring extract and a long, precise finish, I sometimes think that this cuvée—from old, virused vines in one of Saint-Aubin's most historic terroirs for Chardonnay—is one of the most underrated in Lamy's range.

The 2022 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru comes from older vines planted in 1964 on chalky soils. This has another mineral-driven, almost penetrating bouquet that grabs the olfactory senses. The palate is well balanced, fresh and focused, with Clementine and lemon zest notes and a cohesive, persistent finish. It's very intense and the sapidity makes you want to drink more and more. You have been warned.