2018 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de la Chateniere Blanc

The 2018 Saint-Aubin Clos de Chatenière 1er Cru has exquisite delineation on the nose: wonderful focus and palpable sense of energy and tension. The terroir floods through here. The palate is very well balanced, with razor-sharp acidity, just a mote of reduction. Very good weight with a mineral driven finish that has wonderful sapidity. This is an extremely classy Saint-Aubin. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière bursts with aromas of waxy citrus rind, yellow orchard fruit, clear honey and wheat toast. Medium to full-bodied, round and textural, it's layered and enveloping, with fine concentration and a long, saline finish. Lamy notes that his old vines in this lieu-dit (which is warmer than, for example, Derrière chez Edouard) tend to produce lots of small, shot berries.

Cask sample. Minerally nose and very finely sculpted. Long and dense and multilayered. But not cheap! Lots of effort evident in this wine. (JR)

Tank sample. Inviting creamy/oatmeal nose. Quite spicy too. Very mineral. Like the Frionnes, the acidity is high but here it is better balanced overall. Attractive steely directness. (JH)