2015 Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-Denis

(completely destemmed and aged in one-third new oak; bottled in March, along with the sold-out premier cru, which I did not have a chance to taste, and the Clos des Lambrays): Moderately saturated medium red. Very ripe but not roasted on the nose, with its raspberry fruit complicated by spices and sexy earth tones, plus a slightly metallic whiff of cassis bud reduction. Juicy, spicy and savory but still a bit youthfully imploded for village wine. At once less sweet and less floral than the 2016 version, but if that wine is more fun, this one is deeper. Finishes with a firm tannic spine.

A notably ripe yet agreeably fresh nose offers up notes of various dark berries, spice, floral elements and discreet earth nuances. The notably rich medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely mouthfeel thanks to the solid mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a velvety yet punchy and refreshing finale that is sufficiently firm to warrant holding this for at least a few years first. Recommended.

Containing one-third new oak and 60% whole bunch fruit, the 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a ripe red cherry and crushed strawberry nose, perhaps a little conservative but it is essentially the domaine's entry-level wine. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe red cherry and strawberry fruit. It feels harmonious in the mouth with a finely balanced, spice-tinged finish. Enjoy this over the next 4-5 years, but don't feel afraid to crack one open a few months after bottling.

Heady, very ripe nose. Almost too much with a hint of Band-Aid. Some will love this but I want a bit more energy! (JR)