2015 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Pitures

The maiden 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Pitures had historically been hailed upon and consequently blended with Lafarge's village cru and other premier crus...until now. It has a delightful nose, focused but tight-coiled, stony rather than fruit-driven. It sets you up nicely for the beguiling flavors. The palate is vibrant and energetic, bursting full of candied red fruit, vivacious with a fleshy, spicy finish that is a pure joy. There is just a single barrel and you'll only find it in magnums. Beg for one.

(this wine, too, was not made in 2014, 2013 or 2012; there's just one barrel in 2015 and it will be bottled in magnums): Bright, deep red. Highly complex scents of red cherry, redcurrant, cranberry, licorice, menthol, crushed stone and flowers. Surprisingly dense and rich on the palate but sexy saline minerality and firm acidity give it an almost racy quality. The wine's serious tannins are completely enrobed by its intense fruit. Really expands to saturate the palate, finishing with outstanding glistening length. This prolongation of Clos des Ducs always gives a rocky style, notes Frédéric Lafarge, who reminded me that this fruit was combined with the family's Les Mitans to make a Volnay 1er Cru through the 2005 vintage.