2015 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Mitans

(from 67- and 45-year-old vines): Medium red. Perfumed red cherry aroma lifted by floral and white pepper high notes. Brisk and penetrating, with the bracing cranberry and mint flavors displaying a light touch and sharp definition. This very pure, youthfully taut Volnay relies more on its strong mineral-driven acidity than on its tannins for structure. Really uncanny energy for 2015.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Mitans, which sees just around 20% new oak, offers very pure redcurrant and strawberry notes on the nose, feminine and pretty rather than powerful. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, plenty of strawberry and red cherry fruit here, quite solid towards the finish and probably requiring 3-5 years in bottle, because this does have great substance and should age with style. In a word: noble.

Seriously dense and haunting on the nose. Lots of tension and life in this. Savoury and serious. Wait awhile! Long and fragrant. (JR)