2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Champans from Comtes Lafon has an endearing bouquet, one that is very harmonious: crushed strawberry and cranberry, fine mineralité and great delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with deftly chiseled tannin. This is very pure and refined, silky smooth in texture with a sensual, poised finish that lingers long in the mouth. What a gorgeous Volnay Champans from Dominique Lafon this is turning out to be! Tasted September 2017.

(hail reduced the crop to 17 hectoliters per hectare): Musky, smoky, soil-inflected aromas of dark cherry, leather and mint. Considerably deeper and richer than the Clos des Chênes, but the wine's structure comes more from its tannins than from its moderate acidity. Round, fine-grained, full and long.