2020 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay, Vendanges Selectionnees

Slightly reserved on the nose, this has an uncommon textural richness on the palate with substantial extract and grippy tannins that lead to an impressive finish. This cuvée is produced from a hectare of village-level vines spread across several lieux-dits that are all in the centre of the village, touching the premier crus, and are more than 50 years of age. The fruit is destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in mostly used casks to preserve the purity of fruit.

For reports and full tasting notes, go to Tim Atkin MW's website.

The 2020 Volnay Vendanges Sélectionées is even better, wafting from the glass with deep fruit tones evocative of plums and raspberries, complemented by hints of raw cocoa, loamy soil and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and seamless, with lively acids and a long, penetrating finish.