2014 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay, Vendanges Selectionnees

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

(these vines are now 53 years old): Healthy bright red. Very ripe red fruit aromas are complemented by smoky minerality. Ripe and creamy-sweet in the mid-palate, then clamps down on the back end, finishing taut and long, with excellent cut and stony grip. Should make an outstanding village wine.

The 2014 Volnay Vendanges Selectionnées, which sees a whopping 7% new oak, has a reserved, quite tertiary bouquet that is nicely defined with briary and rooibos notes developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, quite firm in the mouth and perhaps just missing some flesh on the finish to prevent it from becoming a bit austere, a bit unfriendly. Hopefully it will gain charm by the time it is in bottle.

Terroir selection in the centre of the appellation just below the premiers crus. Sturdy, meaty nose warns against opening this too early. Pretty compact with very fine sandy tannins. (JR)