2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, Clos de la Barre

Dominique Lafon's home vineyard is a 2.4ha parcel that sits just below the winery on clay and limestone soils and regularly produces one of the best village Meursaults. Made without new wood, it has notes of aromatic baking spices, fennel and lemon tart with plenty of texture and weight.

Lafon's 2017 Meursault Clos de la Barre is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, wheat toast, white flowers, blanched almonds and praline. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's a concentrated, layered wine built around a bright spine of acidity. This is still quite youthful and tightly wound. It will continue to improve with more bottle age.

In barrel. Delicate toasty note, quite restrained overall. But opens to a ripeness that is almost exotic – pineapple as well as ripe citrus. Deeply fruited with a note of clementine that adds a piquancy to the depths. And has great freshness on the finish. Generous but taut on the finish. (JH)