2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2012 Montrachet was the first wine that kicked off a bibulous week in Hong Kong courtesy of the munificent Mr. A. It has a gorgeous bouquet, perhaps a little too creamy at first but it seems to tighten up with aeration, almost steely when I returned to the glass after one hour. The palate is underpinned by a keen line of acidity, very primal (of course) with lovely salinity and a palpable sense of energy. This is one of those Grand Crus that got better and better in the glass, until you give in and admit that Dominique Lafon made a blinder. Tasted at a private dinner in Hong Kong.

Good bright green-tinged yellow. Aromas of mirabelle, white flowers and smoky oak. Large-scaled and thick but not yet elegant or shapely. In the solid style of the year but still youthfully monolithic. This finished its malolactic fermentation later than the Perrieres and needs to refine itself in barrel. But possesses the strong acidity and sappy, palate-staining length to make a great bottle.